Small Farms

I frequently scan the web, looking for the latest and greatest info on small farms and hobby farms (pretty much interchangeable!).  I was pretty delighted to find Livestock Care Videos on HobbyFarms.com, especially in light of the discussion on this blog regarding the care of sheep.  These videos are sponsored by John Deere.  You’ll find the following videos about sheep care :

1. Docking a Lamb’s Tail
2. Castrating a Lamb
3. Giving an Injection to a Lamb
4. Correcting a Lamb’s Position During Birth

The following links are to sheep shearing videos, so you can see how it is done.  In these cases- how it is done correctly.

Geitzen Sheep Shearing

Rural Route Videos - various sheep shearing techniques - this video is for sale

When to Shear Your Sheep  - and other videos on sheep care

Hopefully these videos can help explain how sheep are cared for and what is required when raising them.  Videos usually beat books when it comes to visualizing how things are done!

After some recent comments on my last blog, Using and Abusing Sheep for Wool , I thought I’d share some information on how sheep are actually sheared.  Again, I must state that yes, I’m aware that there are people who abuse their animals out there (just read some of the comments in my previous blog post).  However, there are many sheep farmers that would cringe at the thought of hurting one of their animals, no matter how many hundreds of sheep that they own.  One lost animal represents lost profits- not a great way to run a business.

Sheep can be shorn using a variety of methods:

• Robots (yep, sheep shearing gone high-tech)
• Bio-clip (causes the hair to fall out by the follicles- doesn’t hurt the sheep- it is like Nair)
• Electric scissors
• Hand blades

Each sheep farmer uses what works best for him or her, and what they can afford.  In many instances, larger sheep farms use manual labor crews that are proficient in shearing large quantities of sheep.  These shearers are often record holders, and many are from New Zealand.  It is a rare occurrence to find any sheep injured during these shearing sessions, that is how talented these shearers are.  A professional shearer can completely shear a sheep in less than two minutes- and the wool remains in one piece.

Sheep need to be shorn at least once a year.  If they aren’t, their wool becomes matted and it becomes uncomfortable for the sheep, especially in warm weather.  Some breeds of sheep need to be shorn twice a year to keep the wool clean and free of matts.

Many people who are new to owning sheep and goats don’t naturally think about worms in their animals, after all, these animals are herbivores and don’t eat meat.  However, they do eat from the ground and this is usually where worms come into the picture.  In order to keep your herd happy and healthy, it is important to carefully observe the animals each day for signs of the following:

• Weight loss
• Pot belly
• Anemia (check the eyelids and gums)
• Diarrhea (also known as scours)
• Fleece or hair falling out (also known as wool break)
• Visible swelling under the jaw (also known as bottle jaw)

If you notice any of the following, contact your local vet immediately.  Parasites can be treated if caught early enough, but be aware, parasites can kill your sheep if the infestation is severe enough.

Using a parasite control program as part of your herd maintenance program is one of the best ways to keep parasites under control.  Whether you use natural dewormers or commercial ones is purely a matter of personal preference.  Seek the advice of a fellow herdsman, the Cooperative Extension or your vet for advice on the right parasite management program for your herd.

While everyone wants a healthy herd of sheep, you can’t have one unless you keep on top of things- and that is paying attention to your sheep each and every day.  All too often small farmers are rushed when they care for their animals- after all, many people who have small farms have other “real” jobs that they have to go to each day.  My simple advice is this:  make time!  It doesn’t take more than a few minutes after you’ve fed and cared for the animals to simply observe them.

Signs of a sick animal include:

• Animals laying down when the rest of the animals are standing
• Not eating while the others are rushing to the grain trough
• Standing with their heads hung over the water bucket or trough
• Standing away from the rest of the herd
• Heavy breathing
• Loose Bowels

If you notice any of these symptoms, one of the first things you should do is take the animals temperature- and I mean using an animal rectal thermometer with a string on the end -  just in case.  (Our local vet once commented, “I lose more thermometers this way…”).  A sheep’s temperature should be between 100.9 and 103.0 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.3 and 39.4 Celsius.  A temperature can indicate an infection or other health problem, such as parasites (the skin under their eyelids will begin to have a white color instead of pink).

While I applaud people’s efforts in diagnosing their own herd problems, if you’re new to the biz and don’t have a mentor to call, get a hold of your local vet pronto.  The last thing you need is a disease outbreak that will affect the entire herd.  Isolate the animal so it can easily be cared for and also provide easy access for the vet.

If you’re new to raising shee, pick up a manual on raising sheep, such as Storey’s Guide to Raising Sheep by Paula Simmons & Carol Ekarius.  It will prove helpful, especially if a problem arises outside of normal vet office hours!

~~Charlotte

SmallFarms4You.com

I came across a website that I was surprised to see- SaveTheSheep.com.  Since I’ve raised sheep in the past, and will be doing so again this year, I wanted to find out exactly what sheep farmers were doing that warranted an anti-cruelty website devoted to saving sheep from being forced to produce wool.  Initially I was just looking for a knitting website, since that is a hobby of mine, when I came across this:

“Sheep raised for their wool all over the world are castrated and have their tails cut off—all without any painkillers—when they are only a few weeks old. Shearers are paid by volume, not by the hour, which means that they work roughly and fast, leaving animals injured or with open gashes that can become infected. Terrified sheep who don’t cooperate with the shearers are often beaten and kicked into place. ” SaveTheSheep.com (PETA) 

Needless to say, I was intrigued by the propaganda.  Having started my first herd while in 4-H, I found it hard to wrap my head around the abuse of sheep.  After all, they are raised for their wool.  It is far superior to any synthetics I’ve used, despite their claims.  Ask anyone who lives in a cold climate or has hiked in sub-zero areas:  wool works- period.

While I feel they may have a valid point about people not being careful while sheering sheep, it seems serious injury would have an enormous negative impact on someone who raises sheep for their wool.  The expense of caring for injured animals, even if you have a large herd, would take a big bite out of your earnings.  Primarily, the target seems to be Australian sheep farmers.  I’ve never seen any of my area farmers rough up the sheep nor have they taken chunks out of the actual animal at shearing time.  Imagine the mess and expense of cleaning bloodied wool - who would buy it?  When you hold the sheep correctly when shearing, they hardly move at all.

I’m not saying that cruelty doesn’t happen- there are always dumb people out there who shouldn’t be farming.  But in my personal experience with sheep they have been cared for well.  Not all sheep have their tails cut off (when our sheep were being shown, the vet used a pain killer before he did this, then carefully sewed the incision shut).  The few sheep that are castrated (most of them are sent to market- you only need one or two male sheep), are done so in a manner to cause as little pain as possible.

I suppose I should be happy that this website didn’t slam American sheep farmers- yet.  I think that perhaps this site is using some bad news to infer that everyone who raises sheep for wool does so in a totally heartless way.  This couldn’t be farther from the truth.

If you haven’t bought your tin of bag balm this season, you probably aren’t a farmer.  All kidding aside, Bag Balm gets used for multiple purposes on our farm.  The winters here in New York are pretty bitter, and it seems more so this year.  Bag Balm can be used for animals, and for people, and here are just a few of the practical applications:

*Chapped hands and lips- keep a separate tin of the balm in your home to use on winter-weary body parts.  When used sparingly, it can also be used to prevent diaper rash!

*Chapped combs and wattles- grab your bird and smear a little of this on these extremities, and use it throughout the winter.

*Chapped noses on other animals- once I started using this balm on my horses noses, they never cracked again!

*Chapped and cracked teats- obviously, this product was originally designed to help treat cow teats and it serves that purpose well too.

…and now I return to my 17.5 degree barn…

~~Charlotte

SmallFarms4You.com

While many of the tips I’m about to propose relates to sheep and goats, it can be applied in general to many other animals you may want to purchase for your small farm.  It can be fun to peruse websites looking for specific animals (such as pygamy goats in my case), but you need to know as much as you can about them before you purchase them.  Buying animals sight unseen is never a good idea, and I caution anyone against doing so.  The following are a few guidelines to use before buying animals:

• Whenever possible, buy privately, not through an auction
• Ask for health records and registration at time of sale; demand up-to-date shot records
• Animals should be clean and have good coats and hooves
• Animals should be alert but also have calm dispositions
• Be sure the animal has healthy manure, not loose stools
• Get any guarantees in writing before you purchase the animal

Buying an animal is an investment, especially if you will be using it for breeding purposes or expect a specific type of wool.  Having any guarantees in writing will protect you if the animal becomes ill immediately after the sale.  Don’t pay for the animal or remove it from the premises unless you have everything you need (especially records) at the time of the sale.

Remember- keep the receipts and record of the sale for tax purposes!

~~Charlotte

One of the most common mistakes new flock owners may make is to believe that their  sheep or goats are safe from predators.  Personally, I was surprised to learn what was lurking in my own backyard- Upstate New York.  We have coyotes and there have been several sightings of mountain lions in my locale.  What I do know is that my dog is very territorial and has probably kept these creatures at bay- she’s an American White Shepherd.

There are other animals, including dogs, that can be used to protect your flocks as well.  The following animals can be trained to protect your animals

*Domestic dogs - the bigger, the better

*Llamas

*Donkeys- Jennys seem to work best, along with gelded donkeys

The following animals are predators, and they may be as close as your own backyard:

• Coyotes
• Wild Cats - mountain lions, pumas, bobcats and cougars
• Foxes
• Bears
• Eagles
• Wild Dog Packs

Another deterrent is proper fencing.  Electric fencing, both at the bottom and the top of your fencing can help.  Remember, some of these predators can leap a fence 4-5 feet tall.  Talk with your Cooperative Extension agent to find out what local predators you have in your area, and get some ideas of the right kind of fencing to protect your flock.

~~Charlotte

If you buy an animal that isn’t already registered, is it worth it to trace its ancestry, do the paperwork and pay for the registration?  Yes, and no.  If you are planning on showing the animal and are building a specific type of herd, the answer is probably yes.  If you won’t be doing either of these things, registering it as a purebred is probably a waste of time and money.

For those who want only purebred animals, consider just purchasing animals that are already registered.  A registered purebred animal is one whose hereitage can be traced back to its beginnings, through a herd registry.  It doesn’t matter if it is a cow, horse or goat- all of these types of animals have their various registries.  To register an animal that isn’t already registered, usually all you need to do is to be able to prove the animal you now own came from purebred registered animals.  (That is where the paperwork comes in).

The cost of registering an animal varies from registry to registry and some are pricey.  Make sure it is worth your while before you spend the money on it.

To find a registry for the breed of animal you want to register, either contact the person who sold you the purebred animal for the papers or Google the breed association on the Internet.  They’ll be able to provide you with specific information and the application to be included in the registry.

~~Charlotte

Cleaning wool fiber isn’t a difficult process if you are working with small batches.  Small farmers and hobby farmers can clean their own wool for their own use or to sell.  The requirements are few and it can be done quickly.

Hand Cleanning

To hand clean your raw wool, prepare a dishpan full of cool water and a mild dish detergent or detergent that you would use for washing your own clothes.  Do not add bleach to whiten wool - it will ruin the wool fibers.

Gently place the wool in the water and allow it to soak.  Use your hands to gently agitate the wool, taking care not to squeeze or mash the fibers.  This process can be repeated several times, depending upon the dirt in the wool.

The wool can be dried by gently laying it on a thick towel in a warm room.  Alternatively, it can be laid on wire and placed on a drying rack where it can drip dry.  This method works quickly as it can air dry on both sides simultaneously.

If you want to wash larger batches of raw wool, it can be washed in a washing machine, though a particular technique must be used during the process.  The instructions can be found at this link:  Machine Washing Wool from the Wool Growers Organization

~~Charlotte

SmallFarms4You.com